Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Taebaek and the Glory of Fall; Jesus Abbey

Last weekend was the last straw. I had heard enough shouting, honking, & yelling. Seen enough cheezy advertizements, acts of rudeness, & bland skylines of endless skyscrapers. Endured enough Korean mumbling from my co-teachers and gossiping from my students. It was time... so what's one to do when you can't actually leave the country (and funds do not allow for a jaunt to the ocean)? You go to Taebaek with your waygook (foreign) friends!

Whit, Chelsea, Charissa and I were all so extatic to frolick out in nature that the three hour bus ride came and went quickly. Even the pit stop along the way was merrily embraced as is brought the seldom smelt scent of fresh air.

After disembarking from the bus, we met Simon who promptly ushered us ladies inside for homemade garlic biscuits and steamed veggies. Our bellies were soon full and with energized legs, we sauntered down to the taxi cue. Two taxies, twelve curves, and nearly twenty minutes later we were dropped by the wayside. As we trodded up the tree lined lane, to our destinaton, we followed the path of a well worn stream and watched as it ferried bright leaves away.

At last the walk was over as we reached the moss covered stone steps of Jesus Abbey. (Now I must warn you, I do this place no justice by writing about it. It is one of those places that is enhanced by the beauty of the people you meet there and the presence of calm that creeps into your soul. So just understand that it is so much more then I can describe.)


After admiring the flowers and aged structure of the building, Whit, Nate, Simon and I decided to hike in the bounty of colorful and crunchy leaves. Up, up, up and up... Trekking through a dry creek bed, past hundreds of trees and under the rays of golden sun was bliss. Muted by nature, my lips could not utter even a word to express my hearts content.

Trees... nature... air... I think this time of year is meant to inspire awe within us. For us all to question, not only ourselves but the universe. Why do the leaves change? How have these trees endured such harsh winters? What has changed in life? Where has this year gone? Moreover, I am always left asking, "Why don't people believe in a Higher Being if they see this?"

After hiking back from the top of the golden mount, a walk around the quarters was in order. Simon began to show us around when we bumped into Yancy. Yancy excitedly greeted us and promptly began to reveal the secrets of this magical place. After a quick tour, Yancy checked in on her mother, 90 year old Jane Torrey and after touring the English/Korean library we were invited into their stone small apartment.

Over tea and cookies we all listened to Jane Torrey share the story of how Jesus Abbey began. Jesus Abbey was founded by Archer and Jane Torrey in the 1960's. Sharp as a tack, Jane recalled teaching is what brought them to Seoul, Korea. She went on to share how scary the trecherous commute to Seoul was at that time. Jane laughs about it now but she remembered praying fervently to the good Lord to help their LandRover across the American made pontoon bridge over the Han River.

While Archer was a missionary he taught theology; and focused on three labs: individual and God, individual and Christian community, and Christian community and world community. His teaching was bold and not so readily accepted by many Koreans, so Jane and Archer moved to the mountains to begin a house of prayer. Decades later... Jesus Abbey still stands. It is home to a number of families and welcomes thousands of visitors every year. True it may be a little weathered and worn yet it is a prescious gem made more valuable from the love its inhabitants.

After our goodbyes the group traipsed down the hill and thumbed it back to town. (Literally within 3 minutes we were picked up by a wonderful Korean man who was headed back our way. :) Chicken soup dinner, night time bonfire, morning coffee in a hand crafted wood shop, walks around the block and funky videos, and endless hours of wonderful acoustic guitar (compliments of the boys) kept the rest of our weekend busy. It all passed by too quickly...

The beauty of it all was astounding. Fresh crisp mountain air, the variety of autumnal leaves, and the warmth of which we were were received. Visiting Nate & Simon, Jesus Abbey, Taebaek was the best decision I may have made in Korea.

All photo credits go to Whitney Agassiz

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