Where in the world has Nikki gone? Traveling update #1

Hmm... last post was about mid-August and its what now, the end of September? Yes, I do believe that it is time to update you all. Three trips, eleven plane rides, an engagement, one birthday and one more month in Korea down. It's all been a whirlwind...

First, let me publicly say, "CONGRATS" to my baby sister Courtney and her new fiance Mike Vint. The two were engaged late in the summer and plan on tying the knot Summer of 2011. I am so happy for the both of you :)

Second, Uncle Wayne the beautiful wooden pen that you so expertly crafted for me has allowed me to document my latest expeditions throughout Thailand, Korea and Vietnam. I have fondly nicknamed it Woody and hope that he will ink out far more tales of travels, tally more Canadian Rummy scores and allow me to record new contacts. So I must offer my thanks again for such a beautiful gift.

Now for travel #1 Thailand, yes people T-H-A-I-L-A-N-D. If you haven't guessed by now it's my favorite place to be when I am not in the comforts of Washington family and friends. So, as soon as my last summer school class was over, I caught a bus to the Seoul, Incheon Airport and headed to BKK. By dawn I had landed in the beautiful northern Thai city of Chiang Mai. Too bad I only had three days to stay there, not quite long enough to cause trouble. ;)

My friend Teak, who runs a travel company called Northern Sky Tours (http://www.northernskytours.com/) , picked me up from the airport and we headed to Bo Sang the umbrella village about 6 miles outside of town. This delightful town is full of umbrella manufacturers and when I say manufacturers I mean that delightfully wrinkly women with skilled hands patch together these works of art. Literally they make these umbrellas from the ground up. Each piece of wood is hand cut, chopped, split and constructed one by one as the ladies banter on in Thai. The paper for the shade of the umbrella is made from tree pulp . By mashing the pulp with water over and over it becomes a gooey like paste that is then laid on a screen to dry a bit. I think that was my favorite part since it reminds me of how the rice fields smell after the heavens water their green sprouts.

Once the paper is dry enough to move from the screen it is laid out over the newly constructed frame of the umbrella and laid out to dry in the sun. After it is fully dry from the scorching rays of the sun, painters decorate the parisols with elaborate patterns. Most of the ones I saw were Asian inspired lotus blossoms or tigers, but the color scheme running throughout was bright & bold! My favories however were the ones with little quirks, where one flower didn't match the rest or one tigers eye was a bit larger then the other.

It is always fascinating to me to see the creative minds behind things, to see the humanity that touched it. Too often in the Western world we take out the "people" factor of things as more and more machines make the things we use rather then human hands. I think we all should remember to embrace the quirks of humanity rather then strive so hard for the inattainable "perfection" of the new age.

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The next Chiang Mai adventure was rock climbing with the crazy gang from CMRCA (Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventures). I tagged along on a training climb at Crazy Horse, a series of routes only 45 minutes away by songthaew (or red truck). The group being trained was sent by the government of the Philippines and were all quite skilled climbers. In addition, they were hilarious and made cute Catholic Sunday school jokes the whole way out to the rock.

My expert climbing trainer was Add or Nstar. He taught me all about the climbing lingo, how to tie the correct knots, what to do, what not to do, and how to climb & repel properly. Truly he was a great teacher, he gave perfect instructions for this first time outdoor climber. I was really quite nervous to start the first route but Add was a great encourager; and always seemed to know just when I was about to give up & would then shout tips on how to keep going. So if you ever want to climb in Chiang Mai, ask for Add at CMRCA! (http://www.thailandclimbing.com/)

This I am sad to say pretty much covers my few days in CM, although I did not fully divulge how wonderful it was to see all of my old friends again. I have missed them all and cannot wait until we meet again. "I'll see you when you see me," as the Thai say (and I add), "but until then my heart will see you in all our memories."

Now... on to the next post and next country Vietnam.

Vietnam Part I

A communist run country, a land ravaged by the Vietnam War, images of conical "paddy hats" these were really the only hints of what would await me on my trip to Vietnam. Sure, I probably should have known more about this small country; or at least about Uncle Ho's connection to the VietMien and how the "dragon shaped" land houses the world's 13th largest population. But I must have been asleep in those history classes. However, the normal internal upset of uncertain things was no where to be found as my AirAsia flight bustled onward toward the old capital of southern Vietnam. The only feeling inside was sheer joy and anticipation as thousands of streetlights illuminated the vast cityscape of Ho Chi Mien City that lay outside my plane window...

What did I find you may ask? Well, let's start with the first item on the agenda (after sneaking through security to snag cash and slide back into the "transit zone" to pay my visa toll), which was to make it to the meeting point. One cab ride, a few hundred moto zooming by and a screaching alley cat later I met up with the daring and adventurous Toddy. Quickly we made our way to Phu Quoc, a small island off the coasts of Vietnam and Cambodia.

In Phu Quoc there were scooter adventures, beach burns, scrumptious food, tropical rains and the sweetest condensed milk coffee. Daily walks lead to abandoned hotels, statues of mermaids in the sea and dozens of mosquito bites; and beach watching saw only clear blue seas dotted with fishing boats. Touring around on dirt roads, over rickety boarded bridges and past the sandy garbage strewn shores made me fall in love with Southeast Asia all over again. The people...skin darkened from toil under the blazing sun; the food... made to fill for the day to come; the coffee... to sweeten your outlook on life; the dirt... that reminds me I am but a simple human who came from the dust.

End Part I.

August before vacation

August of this year was unlike any other I've had. At this time last year, I was getting excited for my journey to Thailand, saying goodbye to my family, my friends and the simple Harbor life. Now this August, I am already thousands of miles away from home, another year older, and a college graduate. Life will never be the same... and though its not always easy, it is a wonderful adventure.

August marked the beginning of my 3rd month in Korea. After three months you would think something would have changed yet I still feel quite disconnected here. (I say this knowing that many people have had entirely different experences then I have had here.) The Korean people are quite welcoming but you're on your own after that. For Korean Americans, it is a different sort of experience. Having the look and the language are sure advantages, but for a blonde, curly haired, blue-eyed gal ...well lets just say, its not so easy to blend in. Therefore I have began calling Korea my "halfway house." Here I am halfway between childhood and filling this unwanted and unwarranted role of adulthood. Here I am halfway between the Western world of "home" and the grit and grime of the Southeast Asian countries that have stolen my heart. Halfway fitting in with the expats here and halfway making the shell of a "real life" (meaning I have an apartment, job, and friends here). My halfway point...

Possibly its the culture shock that is still set in that has made this place feel so strange, that I'm "half in, half out." Or maybe its simply not knowing how to say the correct phrases or how to act in a given circumstance. One thing is certain, the daily oddity of a this land has given my heart a frost of isolation. (It could also be the rapid pace, the pursuit of beauty, and the surface level conversations that have left me with a glimpse of winter weather this summer.)

The deepest connections here are phone calls from family, letters from handsome people, skype calls from soul friends across the Pacific, packages (that make it feel like Christmas) and yes I hate to say this, but facebook updates. These things have kept me sane here. I write this not to inspire pity, for I chose this Korean journey for myself, but I write it to remind you all that home is a simple comfort we often overlook. Sometimes it may seem dull or get boring in its "daily grind" (Seattle coffee drinkers yes, there is a slight hint at that morning roast) nevertheless it is home sweet home. Its comforts will always help you to relax after you have been away for awhile. So thank you all who pursue contact with me from miles away. Your love is what helps me endure. :)

A simple and pleasant memory of home. Photo by Julie Siemens Pace, edit by Tj Drew.

Squattie Potties... the thigh workout you never knew you could have.

My first squattie pottie experience was in Ecuador. In a tiny little hillside village that couldn't have held more then 15 families at most. We were visiting different family farms and took time to pray with many of them. After about three hours I had to go pee and asked where the nearest toilet was. Of course I was pointed in the direction of a tiny shack that looked like it couldn't possibly house a proper toilet. Once I stepped into the structure of shrunken, holey wood I stopped. There was what looked like the base of a toilet, you know the hole in the ground but no toilet. Moreover, there was no flush and no toilet paper! Hmmm... Ever quick on my whits (actually I just remembered someone mentioning this predicament before), I decided that the bucket that I saw floating in the pool of water outside of the shack must be for flushing. I toted back my bucket, peed and flushed. It was actually quite an experience to liven up the normal bathroom routine. ;)

Now the whole squatting thing can be quite tricky (ladies I know) because if one is, well off aim then disaster strikes! To make sure you are going to get the right aim do a few practice squats before you drop trou. (It's actually a good thigh/bun workout.)

Now the really gross part. Most Americans expect to have toilet paper in the bathroom they use, regardless of if its a Nordstrom's, movie theater, a friends house or a 7-11 toilet. There should be toilet paper right? Nope! People toilet paper is a luxury, not a necessity. Yes, it may seem like the world is ending once you get comfortable on your porcelin throne and there is no Quilted Northern Ultra Plush; but alas you will live if it does not miraculously appear. Asia seldom offers toilet paper for free, especially in Cambodia and Thailand. So remember your own and remember to toss it in the wastepaper basket or next time you will be stepping in what you ought not to due to the sensitive plumbing.

My second experiences with squattie potties were in Cambodia and then again in Thailand. (Just ask Tori or Brad about Ecuador or Andrea about Thailand or Lacie about the Philippines, they all experienced the "joys" of squattie potties as well.)

Now I live in Korea, which mind you is a rather developed country, so I didn't expect to encounter a squattie pottie here. However, my school (which is about 10 years old) still boast the porcelin floor pot. Korean style squatties have a flush though so there is no need to fill up a bucket and wash your business down. My school pottie is pictured.

So if you ever travel to Asia always remember aim smart, bring your own toilet paper, toss your waste in the basket and flush with the bucket.

So thankful

You may or may not know that Korea really isn't my favorite place to be. That statement aside, I am so thankful for my job. My kids are awesome and such.... well... KIDS! Everyday they give me joy and newfound energy for life. They are little inspirations. They are the future space shuttle engineers, computer programers and scientists. My kids have big dreams and the smarts to achieve their dreams. But for now they just have to make it to the next grade. So thanks guys and gals of Mabuk, you make it all worthwhile.

Genius Classes

So every once-and-awhile (literally there is no method or pattern that I have found), I teach the Genius classes. These classes are groups of 4th, 5th and 6th graders from all over Yongin. They are the best and brightest English speakers at their school and thus entitled/required to come to my class.

Those poor little souls had to bear with me last week as I blundered through a lesson that had been laid out for me. (Mind you the lesson was pre-constructed but missing some key pieces. Just like a puzzle that just isn't finished until you have that last piece. Yet they saw the bigger picture and went with it anyways.)

They went along with the oddly worded worksheets and the directionally challenged directions of the supposed "fun" games. Truly they were great sports and such charismatic kids.

It is so fun when the students feel confident in English, because it is then that their little personalities begin to shine through. It is then the English jokes come out. It is then I am corrected for my English mistakes. "Teacher teacher, wrong spelling."

Today I will teach another Genius class as well. This time I am far more prepared and the fun will be rampant! Hurray my little genii, hurray!

B for B-boys.

B is for B-boys: This weekend Bonnie invited me to attend R-16 (one of the most infamous international bboy competitions) with her friends. For those of you who have no idea what a Bboy is let me educate you. A Bboy is a male dancer (Bgirl for a female dancer) that practices breaking more commonly known as breakdancing, an acrobatic style of hiphop dancing. A breaker is the general term used for both sexes.

Bboying started with the Black and Latino hiphop cultures in the South Bronx in the 1970's and evolved from there. In essence, it is all out street dancing. Koreans picked up bboying, along with the influence of the hiphop culture, largely in the 1990's. Apparently while young soldiers were serving their two years military time they picked up bboying. Starting in the year 2000, the Koreans proved worthy to compete along with the international bboys. In 2002, a German audience watched history as theKorean born Expression Crew won "Battle of the Year." From 2002 on Koreans have only perfected their style and innovated new elements of bboying. (There are four elements to bboying: toprock, downrock, freeze and power moves.) As of 2009, Koreans are the top nation in bboying. Top bboy groups such as: Last for One, T.I.P., Gamblerz, Rivers, Drifterz, Maximum and Visual Shock all hail from Korea.

It was amazing to watch the performances at R-16 (an international bboy festival held in South Korea) this Saturday. Watching these masters of style was riviting, and all that the audience can do while they stare mindlessly at the bboys is utter "oooh!", "ahhh!", and "how the..." :) The final performance was what completely captivated me. It was choreographed (unlike bboy one on one battles which are freestyle) to include traditional Korean dancers, bboys, and Taekwondo masters. The piece began with a traditional Korean drum dance, where the drummers have ribbons attatched to their caps and must consistantly rotate their heads to keep it streaming through the air; trust me its pretty great you just have to see it for yourself. The drummers consistant rotation is akin to the perpetual movement of the bboys. As well the Taekwondo masters jabs and hooks can be likened to the popping and locking of bboys. The performance demonstrated why the Koreans have a historical and natural inclination to be masters of bboying.

So... if you are ever in Korea, you should watch bboying. I can guarantee it will be the performance will not let you down.